1 of 21 5/28/2010 11:13 AM 2006 Marzocchi Z1 Light RC2 Service this manual covers how to rebuild. Download Marzocchi forks manual service.

1. Marzocchi Z1 Cr

Marzocchi Z1 Cr

Weakness: flexy as hell: riding in winter park, i could look down and see almost 10 degrees of deflection side to side on my front wheel. Was considering a RAC or shiver until i switched to hardtail. One of the noisiest forks i've seen. When i took it apart to install the 5' travel kit, shaft of the compression cartridge was HEAVILY scored, still don't know why. The new one's doing fine though. Quality control needs to get better. Mine works like a dream, my buddy's is about 3 times stiffer than mine (he had the 5' travel kit installed by marzocchi, with medium springs, i'm running heavies).

His also feels almost gritty compared to mine. (mind you, his is the only one i've seen problems with). Weakness: flexy as hell: riding in winter park, i could look down and see almost 10 degrees of deflection side to side on my front wheel. Was considering a RAC or shiver until i switched to hardtail. One of the noisiest forks i've seen. When i took it apart to install the 5' travel kit, shaft of the compression cartridge was HEAVILY scored, still don't know why.

The new one's doing fine though. Quality control needs to get better. Mine works like a dream, my buddy's is about 3 times stiffer than mine (he had the 5' travel kit installed by marzocchi, with medium springs, i'm running heavies). His also feels almost gritty compared to mine.

(mind you, his is the only one i've seen problems with). Like the other reviews said DO NOT USE 5 inches on a hardtail this throws of the geometry of the bike it will make you ride bad 4 inches is perfect. I have a hard time to recommend this model my old Answer and friends Rockshok worked and felt better why i dont know. It doesnt setup properly way to stiff, oil was low in the left fork leg and ajusters dont seem to do anything. I got a buddy with a Z4 wow the Z4 seem so much better and has nothing but air presure for adjustment i know it doesnt make sence and im only 180lbs. Like the other reviews said DO NOT USE 5 inches on a hardtail this throws of the geometry of the bike it will make you ride bad 4 inches is perfect.

I have a hard time to recommend this model my old Answer and friends Rockshok worked and felt better why i dont know. It doesnt setup properly way to stiff, oil was low in the left fork leg and ajusters dont seem to do anything. I got a buddy with a Z4 wow the Z4 seem so much better and has nothing but air presure for adjustment i know it doesnt make sence and im only 180lbs. I was worried about this fork at first because I only weigh 155 and the compression seemed very stiff and sticky. After a hammering a couple rides in Moab (my first chance to use it was there) and playing with the compression and rebound adjustments, I've got it dialed in perfectly.

The compression is far smoother than the triple clamp X-Vert T I previously had on my bike, and it loses nothing on stiffness to the lower-end triple clamp setup due I'm sure to the beefy dropouts and brake arch. I'd heard a lot of people talking about the break-in period on Marzocchis, and they were right on. At first the fork is a b.tch, but give it a couple good rides and it breaks in beautifully. A great freeride fork all around. I'm dying to order the new springs for the 5' travel, but haven't gotten around to it yet. Anyone on a dualie have it set up for 5' yet?

I'm stoked to get the extra travel out of such a sweet fork. I was worried about this fork at first because I only weigh 155 and the compression seemed very stiff and sticky. After a hammering a couple rides in Moab (my first chance to use it was there) and playing with the compression and rebound adjustments, I've got it dialed in perfectly. The compression is far smoother than the triple clamp X-Vert T I previously had on my bike, and it loses nothing on stiffness to the lower-end triple clamp setup due I'm sure to the beefy dropouts and brake arch.

I'd heard a lot of people talking about the break-in period on Marzocchis, and they were right on. At first the fork is a b.tch, but give it a couple good rides and it breaks in beautifully. A great freeride fork all around. I'm dying to order the new springs for the 5' travel, but haven't gotten around to it yet. Anyone on a dualie have it set up for 5' yet?

I'm stoked to get the extra travel out of such a sweet fork.

Thanks, but unfortunately those are just the manuals that come with the fork. Not the service manual for tearing apart the fork, etc. From reading on MTBR I guess Marzocchi stopped making them available online a few years ago because of warranty issues after people tried fixing there own stuff, but that's hearsay.

This fork is way out of warranty even though it only has 1000 miles and 1 year on it. I emailed Marz too, and the response I just got back is that they could talk me through it. Need for speed most wanted completo pc.

I'm just not very good at following instructions that I hear. I'm extremely visual I figured over the years some people on here would have gotten it and could forward it on to me. It was worth a shot. I want to go back to Moab this weekend. Anybody have a Marzocchi service manual, for a 2003/2004 Z1 FR SL, they can email me? I've got a 2003 that leaks air really bad, almost stranded me this weekend in Moab. Definately took a lot of fun out of the weekend I'm heading back down next weekend if I can get it fixed Did you try a search in this forum or a google?

I'm pretty good with Marzo's coil forks but I've never opened an SL version. If it's like the 05 air preload, one thing you can try is to take the legs out, put grease on your seals then push it back in. The 05-06 air preload side looses air when you don't grease the seals after a change. If you want to take it apart, check the pictorial instructions on, this should help a bit.

However, if it's your air damper then you'll need an expert, sorry I can't help more than that. Yep, did a search. All the former links are no longer good. I talked with the people at Marzocchi and they explained the process, but I haven't found a thin enough walled 12mm socket yet to tear apart the fork.

Also, not sure I would want to do it just from memory of that phone call. I did an underwater leak test to see where the leak was coming from but couldn't find anything. Anyways, I once again pulled the valve cores and decided to seal them with something better than grease (recommeded by a Moab LBS), since I'd never normally use grease to seal something. I carefully wrapped them with teflon pipe tape and retightened them in.

So far, no leaks. I'm going to do a longer ride tomorrow to test them.

Hope the rain holds off. I still would really like the service manual they used to provide to dealers. Anyone have it? 2003 and 2004 are the same by the way.

Nope, still leaking, just slower. This thing has only one season on it so I'm a bit bummed. Looks like I'll need to tear it down sooner rather than later.

I hate looking for leaks because you just never know where it's coming from or if you have it fixed till you go ride it for 20 minutes. It holds air when it's just sitting in the garage (even at 50psi). Could the tiniest SMOOTH scratches in the stanchions cause the leak on compression of the fork? I'm half temped to step up to an AM1 but that thing has an air chamber too. I just don't trust Marz air chambers right now.

I'd get a Fox but the AC length is too short for my tastes on this bike. I know I'm probably a rairity, but I've got two of them that can't hold air for an entire ride And the other one has no scratches on ths stanchions.

Phat, I just tore down my AM1 that came on a used Moment. I am not familiar with your fork, but if it is similar to the air side of an AM1, then it might be an O ring. I left the one off that goes INSIDE the top cap, that seals the TST adjuster shaft, and could not pump up the fork. I could see how a damaged O ring would be a slow leak and hard to find. Looked like there were at least 3 critical O rings (besides the main fork seals).

The one mentioned above, one at the bottom of the TST cart (where it goes through the bottom of the leg to the rebound adjuster) and one on the outside of the top cap. Oh, and get a deep socket 12 to grind down.

I was able to do it with a grinding wheel on a Dremel. Get a deep socket 12 to grind down. I was able to do it with a grinding wheel on a Dremel.As for a thin-walled 12mm socket. Can anyone post a pic of home-made/Dremel'ed one (possibly next to a pre-dremel brandnew one, for comparison) here, please? So, I'm confused. For the default 12mm socket to fit for the foot nut in a tight space, do I Dremel down the 'outter wall' all around the socket, or do I grind a long sock down (making it shorter). The above comment suggest that latter, but I can't seem to see how shortening the socket makes its wall thinner.

I've never taken out the rods/carts or swap the upper/lower yet, as my quick oil changes are done by simply opening up only the tops to drain/refill. But I've been interested it separating the upper from the lower some time - scary! Thanks, - PiroChu PS.

ZenTurtle, thanks for the URL to the helpful tech-manual website. Hey H, it's Jeff. Long time no see. I'm riding again after taking most of the last couple years off with the new kid.

I did get a few board days in, but none on the carver. PM me with your number, I can't find it.

The deep socket is if you have some adjuster on the bottom of the fork. It needs to clear the rebound/whatever adjuster shaft. So yes, you do grind down the outside of the socket. I made the mistake of using a short socket, and once you put in on a rachet, it does not fit because the head of the ratchet hits the shaft. It still works, I just have to clamp it in some vise grips. Ok, my LBS offered to fix it at a reasonable price, so I tried that first.

They didn’t think it needed a tear down but changed out the valve cores, but no luck. I wish I could get high pressure ones locally to try those.

Since I’m still sitting on a bad fork and once again traveling south to ride, I’m tearing it apart, cleaning, greasing, & tightening. I’ve got it down to cartridges, stanchions, lowers, wiper seals out, and a pile of small parts. Everything looks really good so far and clean as a whistle.

It looks like a brand new fork inside, which makes sense because it only has maybe 800 miles on it. And I keep it clean.

The manual says that you can never reuse the cartridge cap on the left damper cartridge because it has an “anti-unscrewing treatment”. Is this for real?

Why can’t I just put loc-tite on it and put it back together? I haven’t pulled it apart yet because I’m looking for a answer about this. I can’t get a replacement overnight. By the way, once out of the fork, I pumped the negative chamber to 150psi and it’s been holding perfectly for hours. Does that mean those seals are good so no need to tear apart the cartridge?

Full dissassembly, clean, and relube seems to have fixed the left leg leak. The right leg might have lost a couple pounds during my 7 mile inspection ride but it's hard to tell. Marz valve cores are on their way so hopefully that will solve the issue. The right ECC5 leg also has way less air volume beacuse the manual said to used 177cc of oil in that leg and only 50 in the doppio leg. I definately couldn't bottom the fork out on the 1 foot drops I did. Of course I didn't try to face plant. Is this good oil amounts?

(7.5wt (I'm 155lbs)) I wish the LBS would have just done this in the first place when I asked. I know they wanted to save me money, or maybe them time, but what I wanted was a working fork and I was willing to pay a reasonable amount to have it. I just bought an AM1 on eBay, even though I'm broke, because I needed a backup plan. Especially if I find this one still isn't fixed. I can't ride this entire summer stopping and pumping up my fork every 15 minutes. Well, hopefully I put it all together right and it's good to go.